Dawn Falls Loop

This hike is one of the "better known" hikes on my blog. I am writing a post about it anyway because for its proximity to Larkspur and Kent Woodlands, this hike is little visited. Yet it contains all the elements of a popular hike which is why large numbers of locals visit but outsiders...not many. The hike traverses through mixed hardwood/redwood forest before descending into Baltimore Canyon to be covered by second growth redwoods. Then the falls come. Although they are only a 30ft drop and are a trickle in the summer, it is still a treat to visit in the winter. You should view this hike as one of those "quick getaways" from it all even though there are houses clearly visible from the hike. Although the hike is fairly flat for most of the hike, the two steep parts definitely are steep. Without further ado, here is information on the hike:

Terrain: Upper part mixed redwood/hardwood forest, lower part redwood forest
Difficulty: Mostly flat except for two steep sections
Crowds: Low most of the year, can be high on spring weekends
Best times: It is good year round but best in winter and early spring for falls
Length 3.3 miles
Shade level: First half is partly shady, last half is very shady

Directions: From Sir Francis Drake Blvd., go on College Ave. until you intersect with Kent and Woodland. Go on Woodland Rd. until you hit Evergreen Rd. Turn left on Evergreen Rd. and continue on it until you reach Crown Rd. Turn left on Crown Rd. and in a minute, Crown Rd. should end at Southern Marin Line FR, the hike's starting point.

The hike:
Begin by walking past the gate. There is a board nearby with information on the nearby trails and it has maps. After passing that, the terrain becomes a mix of chaparrral and hardwood trees. Hoo Koo E Koo trail passes on the right, heading up to Bilthedale Ridge and then onto the Matt Davis trail near Mountain Home Inn. Southern Marin Line FR continues, curving around the upper reaches of small creeks that head into Baltimore Canyon. Southern Marin Line FR soon passes Dawn Falls trail in a small intersection. To the right, Dawn Falls trail heads up through the mixed forest to the Hoo Koo E Koo trail. Soon, you will pass a pipe which is the Southern Marin Line FR. The black poles and cords assisting it are conspicuous. Just to the left, Dawn Falls trail heads down to Dawn Falls. This trail will be your route for most of the last half of the hike. This intersection is 0.4 miles from the begining of the hike. Continue further on Southern Marin Line FR as it turns to the right. Just to the right, there is evidence of a small mud slide as the roots of some plants remain exposed. Now, the forest becomes more open with chaparral popping out here and there. Views across the canyon open to King Mountain. To the right, views extend to the East Bay and Mt. Diablo on a clear day. Redwoods start to appear but only at creek crossings. The fire road makes another turn and redwoods become more dominant. Once the redwoods become more dominant, you will know you are near H Line FR. The intersection with H Line FR is 1.2 miles into the hike. Besides making a shady rest stop due to the redwood covering and a water fountain. There is a small pumping station here for the water. H Line FR climbs up to Blithedale Ridge FR and then descends it to Old Railroad Grade.

Continuing on Southern Marin Line FR past the intersection, a trail almost immediately goes down to the left. Do not let the gradualness of the beginning fool you, this trail is later horrendously steep and you will find yourself walking downhill sideways in many places. The Barbara Spring trail up ahead is no cakewalk either but it is easier than this trail. After 0.4 miles of mostly mixed forest, the Barbara Spring trail arrives. It is to the left with a small signpost. Brace yourself for the descent. The trail immediately enters a second growth redwood forest and descends along the stream. The descent goes like this: steep descent, levels out for a second and descends steeply again. You will know you are almost at the bottom when the descent slows down for a much longer time than usual. The trail goes to the right of the creek and after one last descent, you are at Dawn Falls trail. Looking to the left, Redwoods tower over you making you feel far away from Larkspur. Look to your right and you will see some houses. Fortunately, the route takes you to the left. Continue through the redwoods as the road narrows into a trail. In 0.5 miles from Barbara Spring trail, the Ladybug trail branches off to the right. It is a connector up to the King Mountain trail. Sometimes, there is a ladybug colony around here. After passing Ladybug trail, the terrain changes a bit. The trail becomes more rolling as a small meadow appears. After the meadow, the trees become hardwood. Once the redwoods return, you will know you are close to the falls. A few minutes later, Dawn Falls trail begins to steeply rise, using switchbacks to ascend the steep ridge. About halfway up the ridge, Dawn Falls appears to the right. It is a 30 ft drop beginning near some rocks. Dawn Falls does not run in the summer so if you came for the falls, come after a rain. After climbing a bit more through the redwoods, the trail finally reaches Southern Marin Line FR. Turn to the right and continue on the 0.3 miles back to the car.

Additional options:
When you begin the hike, instead of passing the Hoo Koo E Koo trail, you could take it. The Hoo Koo E Koo has a gradual climb with mostly hardwood forests and redwoods at the creek crossings. The Hoo Koo E Koo trail soon meets Blithedale Ridge FR. Take that fire road to the left. The terrain here is a mix of chaparral and hardwood forest. Blithedale Ridge FR is a rolling fire road that keeps going up and down. Soon, Blithedale Ridge FR passes H Line FR which passes across the fire road. Take the left option. The fire road leaves the chaparral and enters the redwood forest, hitting the pumping station quickly as well as the intersection with Southern Marin Line FR. This option adds 0.6 miles to the hike and I would not recommend it because Southern Marin Line FR is more beautiful and easier.

Overall, take the hike for the variety of terrain, the redwoods and of course, the falls.

Abbots Lagoon

If you like bird watching, beaches, headlands, great photo opportunities, a hike for the kids and do not mind the drive, this is the hike for you. This hike gives you a closer look at all those rolling hills you drive through to get here. It is also another one of those many "desolate" Point Reyes hikes I talk about that people are coming to more and more. The people themselves are mostly friendly locals like myself. This hike combines the beach habitat with a healthy lagoon and headlands habitat. Even the cows you see grazing whenever you look out the window do not march all over the trail. Oh, did I mention that in the spring, wildflowers are everywhere?

Difficulty: Easy
Terrain: mix of coastal scrub and grass at begining, sand dunes at the end
Crowds: usually high in wildflower season, medium for the rest of the year
Best times: Great year round but it can be foggy in the summer
Length: 3.0 miles round trip from beach

Directions: From 101, go on Sir Francis Drake into West Marin until you reach Route 1Go up it until Sir Francis Drake Blvd picks up again. After Inverness, Pierce Point Rd branches off to the right. Take it and soon, you will see the Abbots Lagoon parking lot to your left.

The hike: Begin by walking onto a flat trail surrounding by coastal scrub and grassland. This is the Point Reyes headlands and the terrain stays the same until the hike nears its end. Expect to see some cows grazing nearby. Along the way, there are observation signs describing the cultural and ecological history of the area. You should be happily snapping away pictures of the headlands with the camera at this point. You will know the hike is ending soon once you hit the lagoon and the bridge. Immediately, you will enter an almost pristine dune habitat as the trail's terrain changes from dirt to sand. Remember to walk on the designated trail because this habitat could easily fall apart with human disturbance. Just follow the footprints which follow the creek, go through some large dunes.
Then the trail opens up to the beach. The views from it are wonderful and you can see both up and down the coast. This is a fantastic place to watch seabirds because they are so numerous and are not the kind that steal your food. Do not feed them or they will become dependent on humans. Also, snowy plover nest here and they are an endangered species so let's hope their nests expand. Remember not to enter the roped off areas. When you are here, you will say, "So this is California 200 years ago." You can continue walking along the beach for more views and more relaxation. This is an out and back hike so you can turn around anytime you like. A word of caution: check the tide tables if you plan to take a long walk on the beach. Also, DO NOT turn your back on the ocean because people have vanished along this wild coastline with large rip currents.

Additional options: You could walk up to Kehoe Beach, to the road and then south along the road back to the Abbots Lagoon trailhead. It is more than 8 miles long and people tend to drive fast on Pierce Point Rd.

Overall, the hike's highlights are the wildflowers, the views, the birds and the not so crowded beach.

Cataract Trail from Rock Spring

Rock Spring and the Cataract trail are two well known hot spots. Cataract trail from Fairfax Bolinas Rd leads to Cataract Falls which is magnificent in the winter. Rock Spring is close to the Mountain Theater and is at an intersection of Ridgecrest and Pantoll Roads. Also, the Old Mine trail begins at Rock Spring which leads down to Pantoll and is a popular connector between the two. Even Cataract trail itself is a popular route descending slowly to Laurel Dell because of Cataract Falls. Although this 3.5 mile hike involves walking on Cataract trail, it takes you through some of Mt. Tam's lesser known treasures and trails. You will see forests of Douglas Fir, chaparral and views extending northwest into Sonoma County. The hike is not difficult either although there is one steep section. The hike feels all downhill and barely any uphill (I was talking about the terrain, not the beauty or the views.) Without further ado, here is the hike and its directions:

Difficulty: Easy
Terrain: Primarily Douglas Fir forest and chaparral. One very short steep climb.
Crowds: Small. Cataract trail moderate depending on the season.
Best times: Good year round, sections can be hot in the summer.
Length: 3.5 miles

Directions: From 101, go onto Shoreline Highway until you hit Panoramic Highway. Continue on Panoramic Highway until you hit Pantoll Road. Turn right on it and go up Ridgecrest Rd. Across the street is the Rock Springs parking lot. At the parking lot is Cataract trail.
From Fairfax: From Sir Francis Drake Blvd, go onto Fairfax Bolinas Rd until you reach West Ridgecrest Rd. Go on that until you reach the intersection with Pantoll Rd where the Rock Spring parking lot is to the left.

The hike:
It begins at the sometimes crowded Rock Spring parking lot. The Cataract trail is not the only option so the hike should be less crowded than you think. Begin your walk by walking through the grassy meadow with Douglas Firs on the other side. In just a few minutes, you will reach Simmons Trail. This goes 1 mile to Barth's Retreat. Turn right on it to enter the forest. Immediately, Douglas Firs cover the trail and the trail follows a short canyon passing a stand of redwoods. A few minutes later, the trail turns left and crosses the small creek. Then the trail steeply goes toward the ridge. This short bit is the only steep climb on the hike. A bit into the climb, chaparral becomes the dominant plant and the soil is filled with serpentine rocks. If serpentine were valuable, Mt. Tam would be mined to death. In a few minutes, the trail levels out on a ridge with Sargent cypresses dominant. These trees usually grow 20 ft tall but the tallest ones in the world are on the nearby Mickey O' Brian trail. Simmons trail descends through a mix of Douglas Firs and chaparral. All too soon, Simmons trail ends at Barth's Retreat. This is a nice quiet picnic area with restrooms in an old Douglas Fir forest. You could take the Mickey O' Brien trail to the left for a shorter hike. The Mickey O'Brien trail goes .7 miles to the Laurel Dell picnic area, cutting the hike by .4 miles. My usual choice is going straight on the connector to Laurel Dell FR though. Continue on the connector through chaparral until reaching Laurel Dell FR in .1 miles. It is 1 mile to the left to Laurel Dell.

Continue left on Laurel Dell FR, staying with the chaparral and a few Douglas Firs. Soon, views open up to the north, going to St. Helena and past it. On a clear day, you can see past Jenner in Sonoma County. Laurel Dell starts to descend with small steep downhills and then flattening out again. The terrain also changes too with Douglas Firs becoming more dominant the further you walk. You will know you are only a quarter of a mile to Laurel Dell when the fire road turns to the right and you can see a small canyon below you. This is a deeper Douglas Fir forest. All too soon, you will reach the meadow with Laurel Dell. Picnic tables are to the right. To the left are the restrooms and a tiny grove of redwoods. Go left because this is where the Cataract trail continues 1.3 miles back to Rock Springs. The Douglas Fir forest continues to the habitat on the hike. Also, the Cataract trail may be crowded on weekends due to people going to Laurel Dell or visiting Cataract Falls. In 0.1 miles, the Mickey O' Brien trail goes to the left. Continue on the Cataract trail which goes uphill ever so slowly. It follows Cataract creek which falls straight to Alpine Lake near Alpine Dam. A bridge connects to Laurel Dell and this is the last intersection of another trail for 1 mile. A minute later, you should be able to see an old airplane engine if you look really closely into the creek. There was an airplane collision in 1945 above the canyon. I usually find the engine when hiking but for me, its location and look seems to change every time I visit. Soon, there is a small fence and Cataract trail crosses the creek. Cataract trail was rerouted in the 90's and early 2000's so follow the new routes. The forest opens up to some grassland. The exchanges between forest and grassland continue for the rest of the hike. The slope remains as usual, slightly uphill. You will know you are close to Rock Springs when you see a water tank to your right partly shrouded by some trees. After you pass the water tank, you will see the Simmons trail intersection and the Rock Springs parking lot ahead of you.

Additional options: From the Laurel Dell picnic area, you can turn right towards the picnic tables. You can continue 0.4 miles to the right on Cataract trail if you want to see some of the falls or further. It is one of those areas that make Mt. Tam one of the best mountains where you can hike. Unlike most of the hike, going back from the falls will be a steep uphill so you decide how far down you want to go.
Also you could take the Benstein trail instead of the Simmons trail. The Benstein trail adds about .4 miles to the hike. Right after you start on the Simmons trail, the Benstein trail branches off to the right. It is not steep and remains in a Douglas Fir forest until it intersects with Laurel Dell FR in 1.2 miles. It intersects with Rock Spring Lagunitas FR but picks up in 0.1 miles. Once hitting Laurel Dell FR, Potero Meadows is to the right but the route takes you to the left where you pick up on the rest of the hike. Trust me, it is amazing this part of Mt. Tam is packed with picnic areas.

Overall, the hike's highlights are views, variety, special places, almost no uphill and (mostly) small numbers of people.